Dear fellow travelers. It's been a minute since I've posted a blog entry but now that we are more or less settled in our new location and getting alot of inquires on the topic, thought I'd say a few words.

The elephant in the room today is budget travel, specifically lodging, in Japan. With the rise in tourism, the drop in yen and increase in popularity, Japan is booming as a destination for tourists. At the same time rapid de-population, COVID and aging society has deeply affected small inn availability in many places especially outside of the main cities.

So this has created a nearly perfect storm of short supply and steeply rising prices. Especially in tourism hot spots and seasons that coincide with Japanese holidays.

Let's understand a little more about lodging in japan - especially the uniqueness of the classes of hotels and places to stay. 

Ryokan - At the top of the list. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn that offers guests an authentic cultural experience, combining hospitality, architecture, and cuisine. These establishments typically feature tatami-matted rooms, futon bedding, onsen (hot spring) baths, and kaiseki (multi-course) meals, providing a glimpse into Japan’s long-standing traditions of omotenashi (hospitality). Ryokan are often located in scenic areas such as hot spring resorts, historical towns, and rural settings, offering a tranquil retreat from modern life.

Japan’s Ryokan Business Act (旅館業法, Ryokan Gyōhō) establishes regulatory standards for operating traditional inns, classifying them into different categories based on their size, amenities, and operational style. The primary classifications under the Act are:

1. Ryokan (旅館) – Traditional Japanese Inn
   • This category refers to ryokan that maintain a distinctly traditional style with features such as tatami flooring, sliding doors, and yukata (casual kimono) provided to guests. Meals, usually including seasonal and regional specialties, are often served in-room.
   • Ryokan typically emphasize personalized service, with staff attending to guests' needs with a high level of formality and attention.
2. Hotel (ホテル) – Western-Style Accommodation
   • Though technically not ryokan, Western-style hotels are covered under the same regulatory framework and must meet specific standards in terms of facility size, room structure, and amenities.
   • Unlike ryokan, hotels offer Western-style beds, carpeting, and self-service features.
3. Simple Lodging (簡易宿所, Kan’i Shukusho) – Budget or Minimalist Lodging
   • This category includes budget accommodations such as capsule hotels, guesthouses, and hostels that offer shared facilities and lower-cost stays.
   • These establishments have simplified amenities and are designed for budget-conscious travelers or short-term stays.
4. Boarding House (下宿, Gesyuku) – Long-Term Stay Lodging
   • Boarding houses cater to long-term residents, such as students or workers, offering basic facilities with limited services.
   • They are subject to less stringent hospitality requirements compared to ryokan or hotels.

In addition to the Ryokan Gyōhō, Japan has also established a few special classes for short stay or limited stay facilities.

1. Minpaku (民泊) – Private Lodging/Airbnb-Style Rentals

• Description:
  • Minpaku refers to private accommodations, such as apartments or houses, rented out on a short-term basis. The rise of platforms like Airbnb has popularized this lodging option for tourists seeking a more local and cost-effective experience.
• Regulations:
  • Governed by the Minpaku Law (民泊新法, Private Lodging Business Act), which came into effect in 2018 to regulate short-term rentals.
  • Hosts must register with local authorities, comply with hygiene and safety standards, and are generally limited to renting for up to 180 days per year.
• Typical Features:
  • Fully furnished apartments or houses
  • Self-service amenities such as kitchens and laundry facilities
  • Lower cost compared to hotels or ryokan

2. Guesthouses (ゲストハウス) and Hostels

• Description:
  • Guesthouses and hostels offer budget-friendly accommodations with shared facilities such as dormitory-style rooms, kitchens, and common areas. They are popular with backpackers, solo travelers, and budget-conscious tourists.
• Regulations:
  • Classified under the "Simple Lodging" (簡易宿所, Kan'i Shukusho) category of the Ryokan Business Act.
  • Must comply with fire safety regulations and hygiene standards.
• Typical Features:
  • Shared dormitories and private rooms
  • Communal kitchens and lounges
  • Social environment with international travelers

3. Capsule Hotels (カプセルホテル)

• Description:
  • Capsule hotels offer compact, pod-like sleeping spaces designed primarily for short stays or overnight business travelers. They provide privacy at a lower cost than traditional hotels and are often located near train stations.
• Regulations:
  • Also classified under the "Simple Lodging" (簡易宿所) category.
  • Operators must follow strict hygiene and space allocation guidelines.
• Typical Features:
  • Small, individual sleeping pods
  • Shared bathrooms and amenities
  • 24-hour reception and locker facilities

4. Business Hotels (ビジネスホテル)

• Description:
  • Business hotels cater primarily to domestic business travelers and offer basic, functional accommodations at affordable prices. They are typically located in urban centers near train stations.
• Regulations:
  • Operate under the general hotel regulations of the Ryokan Business Act.
• Typical Features:
  • Compact rooms with Western-style beds
  • On-site convenience services such as laundry and vending machines
  • Affordable pricing with minimal amenities

5. Love Hotels (ラブホテル)

• Description:
  • Love hotels offer short-term, private stays designed for couples seeking discreet accommodations. They provide themed rooms, unique amenities, and the option for hourly or overnight stays.
• Regulations:
  • Regulated under the "Adult Entertainment Business Law" (風俗営業法, Fūzoku Eigyō Hō) rather than the Ryokan Business Act.
  • Must adhere to strict location-based zoning laws.
• Typical Features:
  • Themed décor and privacy-focused check-in/check-out
  • Hourly rates available
  • In-room entertainment and amenities

6. Weekly/Monthly Mansions (ウィークリーマンション / マンスリーマンション)

• Description:
  • These furnished apartments cater to long-term visitors who need temporary housing for work, study, or relocation purposes. They provide flexible lease options without requiring a long-term commitment.
• Regulations:
  • Fall under standard real estate rental laws rather than hotel regulations.
• Typical Features:
  • Fully equipped apartments with utilities included
  • No long-term lease or guarantor required
  • Cost-effective alternative to hotels for extended stays

7. Manga Cafés (マンガ喫茶) / Internet Cafés (ネットカフェ)

• Description:
  • Manga and internet cafés provide 24-hour access to private booths or reclining chairs, often used by budget travelers or those needing a place to stay overnight in emergencies.
• Regulations:
  • Not classified as accommodation businesses, but subject to business operation laws.
• Typical Features:
  • Personal booths with reclining seats
  • Access to manga, internet, and showers
  • Low-cost overnight stays with food and drink options

8. Temple Stays (宿坊, Shukubo)

• Description:
  • Temple lodgings allow visitors to experience a spiritual retreat within Buddhist temples. They offer simple accommodations, traditional vegetarian meals (shojin ryori), and participation in temple rituals.
• Regulations:
  • Often exempt from standard lodging laws due to their religious nature but must adhere to local health and safety standards.
• Typical Features:
  • Tatami rooms and futon bedding
  • Early morning prayers and meditation sessions
  • Shojin ryori meals and cultural experiences

So how about booking these? Where the real fun begins! Let's understand a little about Japanese company life, vacations and how the domestic population approaches 'stays'.

First off - most working Japanese, work for large companies that have long standing relationships with specific group travel agencies and, if they are large enough, ryokans or resorts. Since everything is carefully scheduled and managed, the employees are guaranteed great places to stay during their precious time off, resulting in little disruption to the company. At same time, the resorts or ryokans have nearly continuous bookings established over many years. 

Secondly - Japanese don't have long vacations. There are many single day holidays, some are bridged with a weekend or 2 , but in general time off is just not a thing. And since the days off are generally National Holidays, there are very high peak seasons where it's bascially impossible to book any casual stay. Again - think about the above. The large companies guarantee their valued employees WILL have places to stay and the ryokans and resorts GUARANTEE that as well. There is NO RISK to the company, the employees or lodges. BUT, 99% of the inventory will be consumed by these long standing relationships. Good luck booking a ryokan or resort during a Japanese National Holiday. 

Thirdly - Japan is the king of middlemen and traders. If there's a way to carve a cut, it happens. So along with the Ryokan Act, Japan also has a Travel Agency act which pretty much guarantees that ONLY specified agencies may engage in group booking. And the Ryokans establish relationships with these middlemen agencies to guarantee further their inventory. Think many thousands of 'package tours' with buses dropping off guests led by flag waving guides at popular resort, onsen and ryokan locations.  If the companies get first dibs on the rooms, the tour agencies are getting second dibs.

So, what's left? Thanks to the digital revolution, platform aggregators pick up the scraps of any left over inventory and it becomes a free for all for booking these left over rooms. Since the platforms are reaping 10-20% of booking fees, the ryokans only use these as a way to guarantee maximum room occupancy. 

OK - now for the deep dive into the Jam Econo

Along with these steadfast, stalwarts many thousands of nearly ephemeral 'short stay' facilities have popped up. These cater to the couples looking for dalliance (Love Hotels), over stayed Salarymen and OfficeLadys (Capsule Hotels)  , Otaku and NEETS (Manga Kissa) and Itinerant logistics drivers (Business Hotels. These often are borderline MizuShobai (Water trade) so be careful when treading here. 

And then there's the Minpaku - AirBNB rules the game here which are mainly Owner occupied or managed guest houses. In the past these were lightly regulated and oftentimes affordable. Due the current gap in facilities, though, they are becoming more expensive and boutique oriented. And there's a whole new niche of quasi airbnb managed by mainly other SouthEast / Asian vendors to provide inbound facilities for their own 'package tours'. 

Let's focus a minute on the Business Hotels. because this is going to be your best option for finding relatively cheap places for the night, in reasonable locations without large advance booking requirements. In fact many times you can walk in and book immediately. Just like a Motel 6 or other traveler motel.

How do you book these? Well, again thanks to the platform digital revolution - you can easily find availability by the most popular web sites and applications. Here's a few that are especially popular in Japan. Remember, the inns will be publishing their inventory across many platforms, so there is little advantage in checking all of them, just check a couple and you'll cover at least 90% of the inns.

Google Maps - perhaps the #1 search source for any kind of stay in Japan. Google has been in Japan since day 1 and worked very hard to achieve search dominance. They are the dominating search engine and map locator in Japan. Start there. The hotels will often have recommended booking platform or the hotel's website to make your booking.

Now on to the sites!

booking.com -> they are super popular in Japan and globally. 
jalan.net ->a Japanese Recruit Company, it has very large adoption especially among lessor inns that are not on the booking.com platform
rakuten -> another powerhouse in Japanese platform business aggregation, Rakuten also has a popular travel site.

If you've exhausted these in your search for affordable and timely lodging, then it's time for the rabbit hole.

Capsule Hotels - you'll want to use the Japanese search term in any of the above to find these gems. カプセルホテル Capsule Hotels are generally self-serve, somewhat intimidating for first time users, but oftentimes the only option other than a piece of cardboard in a train station.

Manga Kissaten or Cafe - with lots of displaced people, the cities never sleep. Or at least a solid 8hrs. It's possible to book a special 'rest room' in very niche cafe's, video boxes and reading / viewing businesses setup just for the wandering masses looking for a few hours respite from the street and a place to chill out with their favorite manga, video or Netflix. Many of these also have shower and locker facilities making them popular for students travelling cheap or even eigyo (sales) workers on very short budgets. This is a deeper dive into Japanese culture and will require a bit more searching and understanding.

• Online Maps and Navigation Apps: Use platforms like Google Maps to search for terms such as "manga kissa" (まんが喫茶) or "internet café" (インターネットカフェ) in your desired area. This will provide you with nearby options, complete with user reviews and directions.
• Popular Chains: Familiarizing yourself with well-known chains can simplify your search. Some prominent manga café chains include:
  • Kaikatsu Club (快活クラブ): Known for high-end facilities, including soundproof private rooms and women-only areas.
    
  • Manboo! (マンボー): Offers private rooms with amenities like desktop PCs and free Wi-Fi.
    
  • GeraGera (ゲラゲラ): Provides a distinctive combination of workspace and a large manga library.
    
  • Media Café Popeye (メディアカフェポパイ): Features amenities such as showers and free drinks.
  • Jiyū Kūkan (自遊空間): Offers a more enjoyable internet café experience with facilities like karaoke, darts, and billiards.

Sleeping Rough.

When you've exhausted all options and are still looking for a crash out place here are few of the somewhat accepted options.

Family Restaurants - by purchasing and endless 'Drink Bar' many family restaurants will let you stay in a booth for nearly endless time.  You will oftentimes see students studying, salarymen who missed their last train or just itinerants looking to snag a few hours of respite from the streets.

Train Stations - missed your train? Don't be surprised to see a few dozen people in the same circumstance. The Japanese police are surprisingly lenient with those who have 'missed a train' and just trying to get comfortable with a Chu Hai , newspaper and piece of cardboard for the night.

Michi-no-Eki - on the road? There are many Japanese 'road stations' where you can park for free and rest a few hours. It's encouraged to avoid traffic related accidents and provide some local community support by special goods, etc. Sometimes they even have showers! They all have toilets and if you're on a bike with a bivvy, generally a patch of grass or 2 and nobody will bother you. Just don't plan on building fires, camping or otherwise making this your temporary home. They cut the fine line between 'rest' and 'stay'.

I've saved the Love Hotels for last.  Once a cultural phenomenon in space crunched Japanese high density cities with multi-story dwellings, zero insulation, Love Hotels offered a small gap in which couples could escape for an hour or 2 of amorous activities. Fast forward and they've become more theme oriented, spas , cosplay centers and a great place for people to try on new activities. Or, just a quick place to grab a few hours 'rest'. They are oftentimes located near train stations and convenient roads just inside or outside town. Don't be too prude..or proud .. they remain one of the off radar and interesting options to casual stays in Japan. 

Yes, that's right! After more than 10yrs servicing the Tokyo locale we are relocating to a new place in the Japanese Alps in Gunma near to Takasaki.

Stay tuned as we transform our 150yr old Japanese farmhouse into the new GS Astuto HQ. With more space for combined shop, cycling center and stay, the new GS Astuto location is perfectly situated in the foothills of the Japanese Alps and convenient to Shinkansen, Highway and of course Cycling from Tokyo.

It has been a dream of mine to have 'a place in the hills' where we can relax a bit more, have a nice garden and be on the doorstep of some of the world's best riding!

Plans are such that we will be operating a very limited wheel building shop from July, then as renovations progress, plan on opening our facility to the public in early 2022.

Thanks again for all your support!
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Emma Pooley challenging the Haute Route Alpe d'Huez. A 3 day sportif held in the iconic Alpe d'Huez region of France. After Stage 2, Emma is in 1st place (women) and top 5 ranking overall (men and women). Emma is GS Astuto's global ambassador and consulting engineer giving us valuable feedback on real world performance and durability. The only way to truly build great wheels is have them raced and ridden by truly great riders!